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Take a moment to browse through these frequently asked questions. If the answer
to your specific question isn't here, we invite you to
us directly. We look forward to hearing from you.
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Hat for the chimney?
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Chimney caps are protective coverings for chimneys that are usually made of
aluminum, galvanized or stainless steel, or copper. Most have a mesh screening that serves as a spark arrestor and barrier against animals. They also prevent rain from entering the flue of the chimney.
All chimneys, even unused ones need a cap to keep out rain. The rain will soak into the masonry and bring moisture into your house.
Since this chimney is not in use, you can either use a chimney cap, or block the flue. A two inch masonry block can be caulked or cemented on the top of the flue to seal it completely off. This a more permanent fix.
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I need to vent
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The main reason to vent a crawlspace is to protect the main wood structure that
supports your house. Without proper venting, moisture will become a problem. A moist environment invites rot, insect infestation and mold.
If the insulation is located on the perimeter walls and you have a good vapor barrier, then it is usually okay not to have vents. If the insulation is under the floor, then it requires good ventilation.
Keep gutters and downspouts in good working condition to divert water away from the foundation and the crawl space. Make sure that you have good grading around the house. The more water you can divert from the house, the drier the crawl space will be.
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Keying into garage door
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It is possible to reuse your old keypad. The old keypad should have two wires
coming from it that can be hooked up to the base unit in the garage. The wired keypads are just switches. So, if you hook up the old pad, it will open and close the door using your old code.
If you want to replace your old keypad, you can find the one you need at
http://www.geniedoor.com/index.shtml. You can replace the old keypad with a wired keypad, or you can pay a little more and get a wireless keypad. The Website has several options to choose from. The advantage of wireless keypads is there is no drilling or wiring to do.
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Off is on and on is off
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This is not a hard task, but it does require some patience. The wiring is not the
problem at all. Someone installed the switches upside down. All that is needed to correct the problem is to turn the switch around.
Follow these simple steps: 1) Turn off the power at the main panel. 2) Remove the cover plate from the receptacle. 3) Undo the two screws that hold the receptacle. 4) Put the switch in the position where you see the word “OFF.” 5) Turn the body of the switch until the “OFF” is on top. 6) Put the screws back in. 7) Put the cover plate on.
Be careful when you turn the switch body, so you do not loosen any of the wires. Remember: Always be very cautious when working on electrical devices. Some electrical panels cannot be completely turned off by turning off just one breaker. A no-contact volt sensor is a sure way to know if the power is really off in the spot you are working. A no-contact volt sensor cost less then $20 and is a must for do- it-your-selfers.
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On the move in Florida
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I know exactly what caused this smell. What you smelled is the sewer. The drain/waste pipes that are connected to your sink and toilet have to be capped to keep sewer gas from entering you house. The P-trap under your sink is typical of the traps that are a part of every fixture that drains to the sewer. It is designed to hold a small portion of water at all times, which acts as a cap to keep the sewer smell out of your house.
In your case, the water in the trap evaporated from the lack of use. With no water in the trap, nothing kept the sewer gas from entering your house. After your guest used the water in the bathroom, the trap filled up again and capped off the sewer gas.
To avoid the smell problem just use this bathroom occasionally.
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Plug it in, plug it in
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I recommend that you consult the electrician doing your work. Or, if you are
knowledgeable on wiring and the safety precautions of doing the work, you can do the work yourself.
My recommendation is to run two twenty-amp circuits. Put half of your outlets on one and the other half on the other. If you are doing this yourself, don’t forget to use 12/2 wires. For safety, never attempt a do-it-your-self electrical job without the proper knowledge of wiring methods and safety precautions.
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Sliding door just won't go
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This is not a hard task, but does require patience.
You will need to measure the inside dimensions of the track (a part that is not
bent). Cut a piece of wood that is about an eight to three sixteenths wider than the inside dimensions, and about twenty inches long. Screw a couple of two inch screws in the top of this board, leaving them sticking out about an inch. With the screws on top, work the board into the track. Take a piece of board about a foot long place it along the outside of the track and tap it with a hammer. Go along all of the bad spots until it is all-flat. Then remove the wood using the screws to pry it out. The door should glide easily
again.
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Wood for insulation?
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Actually, wood shavings do have some insulation value. Common cellulose loose fill insulation is about 3.5 to 3.7 “R” value per inch, wood shavings is about 2.5 “R” value per inch. Cellulose is the most common loose fill insulation used today. This insulation is a paper product with additives to provide resistance to fire and mold/fungus growth.
The problems with wood shavings are, it is hard to treat against fire, vermin, and fungal growth. Also wood shavings are heavy and may be too heavy for some attics.
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